I am having a love affair with West Sumatran food. I’m not even ashamed of it.
West Sumatran cuisine is a well known favorite across Southeast Asia, as well as being recognized as some of the best food in the word. In this article, I’d like to introduce you to some of the local eats, including some of my absolute favorites.
The food here is fiery with great big helpings of chili, lemongrass and ginger. -If there is no chili involved in a meal, Bayu is completely disinterested (honestly, I made some banana bread the other week, Bayu’s reaction was altogether apathetic; ‘I don’t understand. If I wanted a banana, I’d eat a banana’). However, that doesn’t mean that you HAVE to eat pedas (spicy) food; all offerings are available minus the kick – don’t be afraid to ask for less heat; ‘tidak pakai chabe’ (not with chili), or ‘tidak pedas’ (not spicy).
Sate Padang – Spiciness level; Medium
Sate Padang is beef satay covered in a delicious sauce which is bursting with flavor. The beef is boiled twice and packed in spices before being barbecued; this gives it a juicy and soft texture, and the taste is slightly sweet. The sauce is thick and yellowish in colour; it smells (and tastes) amazing. It is served with a sprinkle of crispy fried onion.
If beef doesn’t float your boat, chicken sate is also widely available, and equally delicious.
Get your sate Padang with lontong (squares of compressed, cooked rice), for a more filling meal.
Rendang – Spiciness level; Medium to High
It’s time to celebrate! Someone is getting married/having a baby/coming home/moving home etc etc. That means one thing will definitely be on the menu; Rendang. Rendang has been described as a ‘caramelized beef curry’ and having read that, I can’t think of a better way to describe it. Coconut milk, lemongrass, chili, beef and a mixture of spices are first boiled and then condensed until all the liquid evaporates and the mixture turns a darker colour. It takes a good few hours to cook, and is done ‘when it’s done’ (it’s the first Indonesian dish I learned to cook).
The wait is certainly worth it though, in 2011, and again in 2017 a poll of 35,000 people voted Rendang as the number one dish of the ‘World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods (Readers’ Pick)’; so you know it’s going to be good.
Gulai – Spiciness level; Low to High
Gulai simply means ‘curry’. West Sumatran curries are typically made with a coconut milk base, a variety of spices and, of course, chili, with some greens added too.
Gulai can be made with chicken, fish, or beef, but often it is tofu and/or boiled egg, making it a great vegetarian/vegan option. Gulai is a firm favorite in our house; quick and easy to make, and perfect every time.
Ayam/Ikan Bakar – Spiciness level; Low
Ayam is Chicken, Ikan is fish, bakar is ‘burnt’. Yes, it’s barbecued chicken or fish. Your choice of meat is covered in a mildly spicy, incredibly more-ish coconut milk based curry paste, after being cooked over an open flame.
In my opinion the fish is unbeatable here; next to the sea there is never a shortage of fresh, succulent fish. What better way to enjoy today’s catch then barbecued and smothered in curry?
Martabak Mesir – Spiciness level; Low to Medium
Probably my all time favourite, martabak mesir is mildly spiced beef wrapped in a savoury pancake, in a sweet and spicy sauce. It sounds a little mad, but it is completely delicious. While martabak is enjoyed in many countries across the globe, minangkabau culture has definitely put it’s own glorious twist on this one. I’ve eaten martabak in five countries across Southeast Asia, as well as in different parts of Indonesia, and, in my opinion, nothing comes close to martabak mesir here in West Sumatra. I would describe it as Minang comfort food; what more could you want?
A note for vegetarians/vegans
There are numerous vegetarian and vegan options available here. The joy of West Sumatran food is that you can see it before you buy it; rather than worrying about names of foods, just have a good look and see what looks appealing – rest assured, milk, butter and cheese are not something to really worry about here – where cheese (‘keju’) is present, it will be very clearly announced, and is actually often served with chocolate(?!). One thing to look out for is fish. It has a way of creeping into everything if you’re not careful. If you don’t trust your eyes, or can’t be sure, simply ask – ‘ini pakai sayur saja?’ -this is just vegetables? ‘Saya tidak mau ayam atau ikan’ – I don’t want chicken or fish.
Absolute, definite safe options come at breakfast time; in the mornings lontong is sold with spicy vegetable curries. A especially tasty (though it can be particularly spicy, and does come with egg noodles – sorry vegans) way to start your morning is with pecel sayur [pe-ch-el sa-yur], a selection of greens with noodles in a peanut/chili sauce.
What about dessert?
Arguably, the savory food in Padang steals the show. However, there are some great sweet options worth looking into..
Lapek
Lapek is traditionally from North Sumatra, but as ever, the West has it’s own version. Small bundles made with rice flour and desiccated coconut, along with all manner of flavor combinations, make this a great sweet treat. My favorite is a coconutty-chocolate mix; it reminds me of a certain chocolate bar from back home.. mmmmmmm…
Martabak Bandung
I don’t know why it is called martabak Bandung (apparently it’s not from Bandung..), but it is. This is a sickly sweet cake, not unlike a giant British crumpet, sandwiched over your choice of toppings; the possible flavor combinations are endless.
Pisang Goreng
It’s fried banana. It’s delicious and it’s available everywhere. Often you can get it with chocolate, or the Indonesian favorite chocolate-cheese combination (don’t knock it ’til you’ve tried it).
Nasi Lamak
The king of desserts in West Sumatra. Nasi Lamak means ‘delicious rice’. Not to be confused with the Malaysian dish of the same name, in West Sumatra nasi lamak is sweet, with cinnamon, coconut, vanilla…
Want to go to the best places to try any of the above, or how about learning to make your own with an experienced cook here in Padang? Have a look at the ‘Travel‘ section of the site to contact us and find out a while lot more…
Jen is an English girl who found herself in Sumatra one day and never went back. A wife, mother, traveler and book worm, she has lived in Padang long enough to speak the language and unearth plenty of useful hints and tips for the weary traveler…
